Kyle To Cal Summary *Final Trip-Related Update*

In the spirit of my friend Jeff Farmer, I will also make a trip summary. This includes ride stats and a collection of lists for your amusement, as well as mine. Enjoy, and thanks for staying tuned. Cheers.

Top Five Moments (aside from Start/Finish):

5. The day I crossed the Mississippi River *Day 13*

The emotions I experienced that day were strong, as this was my first real physical landmark of progress. It was also special as the bridge was new and empty. I felt a wave of pride rush through me as I continued my march west.

4. The coldest day (19 degrees in Florida) *Day 8*

I really did not want to leave this day. The Hills were too kind to let me stay an extra night with them, and when I woke up it was 19 degrees with ice in the driveway. With four layers on (including long johns) I made my way to Pensacola, with a high of 37.

3. Climbing mountains in Globe and Superior *Day 38*

This day was the most physically demanding of Kyle To Cal. With grades of 8-9% and constant climbing, it took 3 hours to cover 20 miles (Globe to Superior). But after that, it was all (mostly) downhill to the Valley of the Sun. Going through Gonzales Pass into Phoenix was euphoric and certainly memorable.

2.  Overcoming a broken spoke in the California desert, saved by a highway patrolman and finishing the 110 miles in my first day in California. *Day 42*

This day truly humbled me, the kindness of strangers who were set on getting me to the Pacific shore. They were my supporting cast, and I will be forever grateful. My longest day of the trip, I rode 3 hours in the pitch black to get to 29 Palms by 9 p.m.

1. Overcoming 3 flat tires to finish my first century ride in Texas (107 miles) *Day 27*

The sheer mental strength this took to complete impressed me and several others. It truly embodies the spirit of this trip: determination, perseverance, and brutal grit. I wanted to collapse, toss the trip to Hell. But I knew California wasn't going to come to me. I was going to finish that damn ride, all 107 miles of it.

Top Five Cities/Towns:

5. La Mesilla, NM (Charm and history define this desert gem).

4. Austin, TX (A weird, funky music town).

3. Huntsville, TX (Sam Houston State University is the most beautiful campus I have ever been to).

2. El Paso (Erica was a fantastic host, made me fall in love with EP).

1. Fredericksburg (The biggest surprise of the trip, in the heart of Texas Wine Country).

Awards to each state:

Fl: Best roads

Al: Most difficult to navigate

Ms: Least cycling friendly (dogs chasing me, aggressive drivers, terrible roads).

La: Worst condition roads (pot holes, rumble strips).

Tx: Best towns, roughest roads (debris)

Nm: Most scenic road (Highway 28)

Az: Most beautiful state (mountains, desert, insane beauty)

Ca: Best weather 

Ride stats: 

Total days: 46; 40 riding and 6 rest

4,634 highest elevation (near Superior, AZ)

2,695 miles

210 hours on the bike

157k calories burned 

67 miles/day

Flats: 6

Broken spokes: 1

Dogs that chased me: several, estimate 90

Misc stats:

Coldest day: 19 degrees, Niceville Fl

Hottest day: 85 + degrees, Fort Stockton, Tx

Most demanding: Globe to Tempe

Least demanding: Mobile to Theodore (30 miles, scenic and relaxing).

Most stressful: Ozona to Fort Stockton (three flat tires on 107 mile day).

Best hotel: America's Best Value Inn, Junction TX.

Worst hotel: Motel 6, Gulfport MS.

Longest days:

5. Blountstown to Niceville, FL (90 miles) *Day 6*

4. Opelousas to DeRidder, LA (91 miles)  *Day 16*

3. Bogalusa to Jackson, LA (92 miles) *Day 13*

2. Ozona to Fort Stockton, TX (107 miles) *Day 27*

1. Parker, AZ to 29 Palms, CA (110 miles) *Day 42*

Content Coming Soon

I'm in the middle of touring Southern California, but don't worry. A trip summary is coming soon.

Day Forty-Six: "The End" (16 February) 49 mi

What else is there to say? Came in from Santa Clarita. I'll let the picture speak for itself. I'll have more to add tomorrow once I'm able to digest the weight of today. Because today was the greatest day of my life, no contest. 

Finish Line

I'll be ending right near Aloha Steakhouse on California Street in Ventura. Anyone in the area is welcomed to attend around 1-2 pm.

Day Forty-Five: "All Downhill From Here" (15 February) 81 mi

Wasn't sure where I would end today. So I paced myself early on as I headed to Palmdale. Getting into L.A. County was a hell of a milestone, good to finally get out of that huge San Bernardino. I had some serious climbs heading southwest from Pearblossom then it was ALL downhill. Sure a climb here and there but I couldn't care less. Also had my second tunnel on Soledad Canyon Rd. Now I'm in Santa Clarita just off I-5, looking at a 46 mile day tomorrow to the finish line.

Day Forty-Four: "Painted Rocks" (14 February) 87 mi

This day was interesting. I thought that it would be mainly flat since it would go around the San Bernardino Mountains, but I still had some serious climbs. One climb I had to abort and try a second time due to poor gear choice. A second one I sized up and decided to walk up (very smart decision). This is just north of the L.A. valley, and you can see boulders with urban graffiti on them. Interesting sight for sure. My body was exhausted, absolutely spent. My quads and glutes were throbbing in pain, probably the worst of the trip.

Day Forty-Four TBA

Too much else to catch up on, will post soon. ETA for Ventura is Monday, stay tuned.

Day Forty-Two: "California" (12 February) 110 mi

It only took half a mile to go from my motel in Parker, Arizona to the California border. I crossed the mighty Colorado River and entered the state of my dreams, posing at the newly installed "Welcome To California" sign with a sense of pride and wonderment. I tried to remind myself of the geographic context: I had made it! I was there. My whole life I had never been to the Golden State, I just read or watched it. I was now physically in California, and I felt this weight on my shoulders melt away. I had finally made it. So I cruised along, reminded of the task at hand. 110 miles, that's not a joke. This would take patience and endurance.
My last century (and also my first) was marred by three flat tires, and nonetheless I finished it at 107 miles in Fort Stockton, Texas. I reminded myself that that was on I-10, I was on a quiet desert highway. Clean road, clean shoulder. Nothing could go awry. I was very wrong about that. Nearly 16 miles in a spoke broke on my rear wheel. My heart sank, my head dropped. A slew of profanities raced through my head. A broken spoke was probably the single worst thing that could happen on this trip. I checked to see how bad the wobble of the wheel was to see if I could still ride. It was almost a whole centimeter. Too severe, and so I tried to loosen the surrounding spokes. Nothing. I could not true a wheel accurately enough to last me the remaining 94 miles, so I weighed my options. I gave my dad a call, he talked me through it. Then in the process of putting on the rear wheel I lost a spring. Without the spring I could not ride, so I frantically searched the surrounding area to no avail. Then, after nearly 15 minutes of searching I found it in a pile of rocks a few feet away. The needle in the haystack effect. Some consolation. My dad, being in law enforcement, had called California Highway Patrol before to tell officers I would be on the desolate Highway 62. I told him that it may be necessary to have someone pick me up since my rear wheel was rendered useless. Just as I hung up the phone, a CHP patrol SUV pulled up behind me. Out walked a tall (taller than me) CHP sergeant. He asked what the problem was. I told him I had broken a spoke. He asked if I was Kyle. We shook hands, he had talked to my dad the day before. I immediately felt relief, he and I were already on the same page. Sergeant Grogan offered to take me back to a bike shop in Lake Havasu City, Arizona to get it repaired. As much as I would want to remain self-sufficient, I had no choice but to take his generous offer. We loaded the bike in the back passenger seats, having to take both wheels off for it to fit. About an hour later we were at River Cyclery where I hurried in my bike. A bike mechanic, Taz, had just gotten back from lunch. Perfect timing. He trued my wheel, and it turns out the spares I had with me were too short, so it would have been a waste to try repairing it myself. Meanwhile, Sergeant Grogan and I grabbed some protein shakes next door. The woman who made them did so on the house, for Sgt. Grogan's good deed and for the cause I was riding for. As it turns out, her nephew also has Tourette's Syndrome. I was truly humbled. But as I went to pay, Taz rang me up at 4.56$ for some spare spokes. "I won't charge you for the truing." I was speechless, absolutely stunned. Even more stunning was Sgt. Grogan paying for the spokes, no questions asked. It was at that moment that I had really nothing to say, and felt very humble and grateful. Such kindness and selflessness, I will never forget that moment.
After filling up for gas in Needles he drove me back to where I last was. I was behind the count by three hours, and I knew I wasn't going back to Parker. I wasn't going to take a rest day and try it again tomorrow. I was going to finish off this damn century ride today. The hot sun mocked my decision as I sweated through the merciless Mojave Desert. Initially I was going 17-18 mph, looking like I could make it to 29 Palms by dusk. But then the terrain became hillier and the wind picked up, and soon I was back to 9-10 mph with no chance of recovery. I called my parents and warned them I would be doing night riding. Three hours I went in the dark, with only a meager front light to guide me and which I could only see 20 feet ahead. Just before 9 pm I arrived to 29 Palms, drained and exhausted, victorious. It was my first day in California, and one that I will never forget as long as I live.

Day Forty-Two: Coming Tomorrow

Just got done with the day 30 minutes ago, will write on my rest day tomorrow.

Day Forty-One: "Howl" (11 February) 56 mi

I knew the winds would be bad today, but I figured they would be mainly from the north. I'm not used to variable winds in Florida, but today in Arizona I found out what they were. It seemed the winds would counteract every direction I went, blowing dust into my face and mouth. 12 mph on average, would gust up to 19 mph. It was dreadful, me sluggishly crawling at 9-11 mph. While it was mostly flat today, I did have some hills. And the worst part was that the day started off all downhill with no headwind, me going about 27 mph without pedaling. The winds tested me, howled in my face and aimed to tear me down like a tree in a hurricane. But I persisted, knowing that if I made it to Parker today, I would be rewarded with California tomorrow (and another century ride). But regardless of the mileage I'll put in tomorrow, at least it'll be in the place I have lusted after for four years. California. Wow, it's incredible to think I'll be there tomorrow. I'm so glad I decided not to drive there last summer; it only seems right to visit California by my own power. Maybe I should change this to Kyle In Cal.

Day Forty: "Euphoria" (10 February) 54 mi

Got a later start out of Wickenburg. The night before I had dinner with my grandmother at Anita's Cocina down the street. That certainly brought back good memories, hadn't been there in 8 years. I had a headache this morning, a surprising setback. I didn't drink at all last night, no crazy partying in Wickenburg or anything. Probably just from the heat. I decided to skip wearing my black cap and let my hair seep through the helmet vents. Popped some Tylenol then hit the road, and within an hour it was gone. But not only was it gone, my body felt so relaxed. I had a borderline out-of-body experience, it was a weird sensation. Maybe I just had an incredible cadence today, but I felt entirely in-sync and in rhythm. I had total clarity of thought, which is always appreciated. I was in a zone of bliss when I heard shouts from the side of the road. Two fellow tourers! I pulled over for a chat. Lindy and Carolyn were their names, they were westbound as well. We swapped stories, I gave my history and we moved on. I really enjoy running into other cyclists, it reminds me that I'm not the only crazy one.

Day Thirty-Nine: "Nostalgia" (9 February) 77 mi

It was great to be back in Phoenix, a city I called home for two months last summer as I completed my internship with Maricopa County Department of Public Health. I saw Camelback Mountain as I crossed the Rio Salado and themi entered downtown Phoenix which was still adorned with Super Bowl banners and posters. I passed places I went just six months ago, it was surreal. I couldn't comprehend that I was back! I was so excited and tempted to take a rest day to visit friends. But California was on my mind, I declined. I swung by my grandmother's house and to also see her neighbors who cheered me on. Her home had streamers and balloons, it was a joyous reunion. Then we met up in Wickenburg for a lovely dinner at Anita's Cocina, a place I ate 8 years ago. Today will be unforgettable. Phoenix, I'll definitely be back.

Day Thirty-Eight: "Life in the fast lane" (8 February) 77 mi

I have a very long day today. The 20 miles from Globe to Superior took me almost 3 hours to complete. There was a 7% grade most of the way, with steep climbs, the steepest I had ever seen in my life. With clipless pedals it can be nerve-racking to see the steep climbs because if you run out of the gears and cannot move any further you will fall over. There were a few times that I stopped before going in continuing up these mountains both to collect my breath and also to mentally prepare myself. After a quick late breakfast in Superior, I began to descend into the valley of the sun. It was a glorious just sent through Gonzales Pass and soon I was back in the desert. I had been here six months before for my internship during the summer. To be back in this beautiful area is shocking, just how quickly I was able to make it here. As much as I want to take a rest day, I know I must continue on to California. Because it is a mission I am on, and it must be completed. Here I go.

Day Thirty-Seven: "Climb After Climb" (7 February) 79 mi

Earlier start out of Safford because I knew I would have to do a lot of climbing today. Sure enough I did a lot of climbing and it pretty much beat me senseless. Add on to this the headwind and I was in dire straits. It didn't help that the background to this physical misery was impoverished Indian reservations, alcoholics walking in the street. I hadn't heard of the statistics of alcoholism in these reservations but seeing it firsthand really led to this culture shock. About halfway to globe I saw this cyclist coming down this hill. It turns out she was going to Jacksonville, my starting point. She, Maddy, was coming from San Diego and she had gone the Flagstaff so now she was on the southern tier route. It's always good to see someone as crazy as you doing something they love. Overall, a forgettable day mainly due to that headwind. But I made it.

Instagram

Check out my Instagram: www.instagram.com/kyle_to_cal

Day Thirty-Six: "Arizona" (6 February) 77 mi

Got an earlier start today out of Lordsburg. It was pretty cold, but it warmed up nicely. About 8 miles in I lost a lot of air in my back tire. I had used one of the patched tubes and I guess the air started to leak out again. So I just tossed that one and put in the regular non thorn-resistant tube. But to get out the very thick thorn resistant tube, I really had to ply off the tire. I only had one tire lever because the other broke yesterday when I tried to put the tube in. If you've never changed a bike tire before, let me tell you that you really should use tire levers because your hands can get extremely cut up from working with the tire. Also this just makes the process longer and more frustrating. Out of this frustration I sat on the side of the road to work with tire because I was tired of standing. A passing motorist saw me and thought I was in distress, he offered me a ride. I thanked him but declined. I was on a mission, I was not going to cut corners. So I proceeded and was rewarded with the Arizona state line! I shamelessly took several photos and video by the state sign, also since I am a geography nerd. As I entered Arizona the terrain changed very quickly and became very mountainous. I had a very high climb, a couple of them actually. Off in the distance I saw some snow covered mountains, the first sight of snow on my journey. Turns out one of them Mount Graham. I got to Safford then decided not to stay at at my Warmshowers host (for safety reasons), I would rather just put up the money for a motel. I also went to the bike shop, the only one in town, to get a new tire because my Gatorskin on the back tire was pretty much frayed. To my delight they had one left, a little larger nonetheless, but it was just what I needed. A Marathon tire which is geared specifically for touring cyclists.

Day Thirty-Five: "Divide and Conquer" (5 February) 63 mi

Took another late start from the motel in Deming because this ride was to be about 62 miles. And with the good tailwind expected I knew I could get to Lordsburg in a reasonable amount of time. There also happen to be a slight decline which helped propel me forward at about 22 miles an hour at times. I crossed the continental divide today at 4585 feet. It was a milestone that wasn't as emotional was say the Mississippi River, but nonetheless it was important, significant to me. I stopped at a gas station about 20 miles out of town and the clerks were very much interested in my trip asking where I was coming from, where I was going to. They said they get a lot of cyclists coming in doing the continental divide ride. I also had my first lunchable in probably 15 years, mainly because they had nothing else in the refrigerator section.  I'm about 10 miles from Lordsburg, I got this terrible clambering sound in my ear. Turns out it was a staple that was lodged into my rear tire and this lead to my fifth flat (fourth on I-10). Nonetheless I was able to get to Lordsburg and off the interstates forever!

Day Thirty-Four: "Bad Winds" (4 February) 62 mi

Decided to get a later start because it was going to be relatively short day. There was a very good Cline coming out of Las Cruces and certainly by the end of it I was pretty tired. But I was rewarded with a very nice view of the Organ Mountains which are east of Las Cruces. I also cross the "mighty" Rio Grande River, which was all dried up. Tried to stay off interstate 10 is much as possible using the frontage road but eventually I had to use the interstate. The shoulder was extremely rough and just a displeasure to ride on. I actually had to stop to kind of let out some anger and just frustration about how uncomfortable the riding was. And then as usual I collected myself and talked myself off the cliff and continued on, slowing my pace and adjusting according to the shoulder conditions. I think I was incensed by the fact that was the frontage road was closed off because one of the bridges was out. I had hoped to stay off the interstate as much as possible but I ended up going an extra 15 miles because of that. I also crossed a US border patrol inspection station. They had a bit of a quizzical look on their faces because of a bicyclist coming in. They asked if I was a US citizen I said yes. And then they asked where I was going and  I told them where I was going. They wished me luck. It was a pleasant experience. The whole day was constant uphill with strong headwinds.

I did get to Deming in pretty good time and now I'm at the Days Inn which is a nice motel. I do have to give them credit because they have a very nice breakfast selection and clean rooms. That's really all I need. It's off to Lordsburg tomorrow.

Day Thirty-Three: "Back To School" (3 February) 47 mi

Said goodbye to my host Erica after we shared great conversation over breakfast. It was great to have a local show me around El Paso, which happens to be a really nice city. Today was a short day so I opted for a more scenic route through the Rio Grande Valley (not I-10). Highway 28 took me through wine and pecan country, stunning. Got to the town of La Mesilla for lunch at Emilia's (good call, Erica) and made it for 50 cent tacos Tuesday. Walked around the historic plaza before I went to my hosts near NMSU. They're college students and I went with one, Denali, to a lecture on border violence and globalization. Camilo Perez Bustillo is the professor, very passionate teacher. Stayed 2 hours, great use of my time.

Day Thirty-Two: "La Frontera" (2 February) 38 mi

Started off the morning with a very delicious breakfast consisting of almond butter, granola, pecans and berries. It was immaculate, our host Craig really did a fantastic job. Lois and I said our final farewell and we also say goodbye to Bill and Erica. Lois left before me and then I headed down the driveway towards highway 20. Just over a mile in to day 32, my front tire got a flat. I just laughed at this one, a front flat? Unheard of. I was just glad they didn't have to take off the panniers and unscrew everything. After about 15 minutes of casually messing around with the tire (it was 38 mile day after all) I hit the road again and moved along to El Paso. It wasn't long until I hit the city in the traffic began increase. But one thing straight out: I was never honked at that today. It was incredible, remarkable and not a single person honked at me even though I was on a very busy road. I meandered my way to downtown through some detours and was impressed with the city. You had some hills on the northside that were a bit tough to get over but other than that it was a very bikeable city. I decided to take my bike straight to the Crazy Cat Cyclery on Mesa where Erica my host would meet me. Instead of meeting Erica right away, I came across an old friend. Lois. We just happened to bump then to each other at the right place at the right time, and she was just checking out. I dropped my bike off for two hours and we said our final final farewells before Erica and I saw her off as she rode to Las Cruces, New Mexico. Erica was a great host, giving me chores of the city so I can sightsee and take pictures. El Paso is just really cool and then you can Ciudad Juárez on the other side of the border. I saw the fence and everything was really surreal, just to be there in the presence of another country. 

Day Thirty-One: "Mexico" (1 February) 85 mi

Had an early leave from Van Horn and very sunny weather. Continued again on interstate 10 as usual and about 30 minutes then I crossed my second time zone into mountain time. I am now two hours behind home. Immediately the mountains seem to get larger and more pronounced though the ascents today were not that bad. I was really captivated by just the sheer size of these mountains. Ironically they were in Mexico which I found out when I was looking at the map. That didn't take away the incredible nature of my surroundings. I got up close and personal with the Mexican border today seen the fence was really incredible. You always hear about in the news, it really is the modern Berlin wall. Now I'm staying on a farm just a half-mile from Mexico. I came across to cyclist going east, Danny and England. They were interesting folks to talk to they offered me some rice cakes which I happily gorged. The host I'm staying with, Craig, put together a terrific dinner which I have provided a picture of and he's also hosting two other cyclists who are a brother and sister Erica and Bill. They are doing the four corners of the United States and had started in Wickenburg Arizona on the first of January.

US 90

There's a significance to stopping in Van Horn Texas. It is the western terminus of US 90, the road I started my journey on. As I walk towards the Hotel El Capitan, on the corner of this western terminus, I do feel this sense of connection to this route way. Sure it's just a sign marker with the number 90 on it. But I started at its beginning in Jacksonville Beach Florida and it took me through the panhandle and through so many states. And now I'm at the end. This is quite something to me.

The Message

Reading the comments of support from others has been very humbling and inspiring. I feel that it is therefore necessary to clarify why I am putting myself through such a mind-numbing, body-numbing task of a 2,000 + mile bike ride in the dead of winter. It's the least I can offer to those who have supported me and encouraged me on my journey.

I had this idea three years ago. I don't recall what inspired it, maybe it was from a show I watched or an article I read. But this idea, this task of biking coast-to-coast became too tantalizing to ignore. A close friend of my mom, Dan Squiller, had a conversation over the phone with me about his trip across the country. His story inspired me, but more importantly it gave a realism to my dream. Dan's accomplishment showed me that this was possible.

I had no real cycling experience, aside from neighborhood riding. I was in fair shape and decided to brand myself as a cyclist to get closer to this dream. I upgraded my bicycles gradually, finally to an entry aluminum road bike I bought in Miami a year ago in January 2014. It was around this time that I began to truly question my motives for the ride. Was there a purpose? Why California? What was with this infatuation with California? Originally it was to escape from Florida, a place I called home 22 years. I wanted to see mountains, see new places, explore parts of this country I would normally just fly over. It was a combination of many personal motives.

And then I thought about charity. Many people ride for charities and causes, right? Cancer, human rights, animal rights, even cannabis rights. Perhaps I could attach a charitable component to this ride. But I needed to have my heart in it. So why not Tourette's Syndrome? I was diagnosed at an early age, and now my sister has TS. It has, whether I were to acknowledge it or not, affected my life to some degree. Bullying in school which stemmed from it, anxiety to conceal my tics during tests and lectures. I had been private about my TS, but I saw this privacy as a waste. A waste of a message of triumph, perseverance and confidence. It was not my goal to be a hero, but rather a messenger. In my quest across this great nation I could leave a trail of dialogue, awareness and encouragement. Dialogue I feel is the most important. For children with TS, I saw this as the most valuable of lessons. I had an extremely difficult time with my TS as a child, and at the very least I hope to offer them this inspiring message of expectation. Expect to achieve more than you can fathom. You are not defined by TS. Your tics are not who you are, and they are not who I am.

I am living my dream. You can too.

Day Twenty-Nine: "Ride Like The Wind" (30 January) 68 mi

Lois and I got an early start to head out to Van Horn and we had breakfast in the room. It was overcast with a light drizzle but we knew that if we could get there to Van Horn would be okay to take a rest day when the real storms hit. Interstate 10 and was fine to ride on. The shoulder and road were mostly smooth so I didn't really have to worry about flat tires today. We were expecting a tailwind so we did not have to put in as much effort. At many times during the day we were gliding, roaring by the scenery at 21 mph. Sure there were some mountain passes we had to climb but with that tell when pushing us along all was fine. And then I have a bit of a problem with my break. I thought "oh no not again". As it turns out it was just a tiny piece of metal on the rim that was rubbing against the brake. Nothing that a little scraping off with a knife couldn't fix. We also were pulled over by a Texas trooper who had received calls we were on the road (which occasionally we were due to poor shoulder). He was very cool and understanding. Once we got to Van Horn we settled in at the Days Inn. Had dinner at the beautiful Hotel El Capitan, which was overpriced. But at least it was nice to look at. Rest day in Van Horn on the 31st.

Day Twenty-Eight: "Texas Mountain Majesty" (29 January) 51 mi

It was a very windy start to day 28 of Bike Across America. Lois and I headed out stopping at Walmart where I use the bike pump to get a good air pressure in that back tire after all the flats I changed yesterday. We then proceeded west on Interstate 10 heading towards Balmorhea, Texas. On the way, about maybe 4 miles was when I got my first glimpse of mountains. It was a very impressive sight but seeing the mesas and seeing the hills before it was gradual, it didn't come out of nowhere per se. So being that it was maybe 50-51 mile day we took a lot of pictures. I don't remember where we were, what mileage but we were stopped by these two men who had a truck that had been waiting for us on the side of I-10. Paul and Rus were traveling back from Houston, Texas to their home in Prescott, Arizona and Rus had biked across the country before. Seeing us they had pulled over and offered me a Gatorade. It was great to see two people show such kindness. In an otherwise unremarkable day this will certainly be something I'll remember. We arrived in Balmorhea, Texas, which is basically a ghost town, and got some Mexican food. It's off to Van Horn, Texas tomorrow.

Day Twenty-Seven: "Century" (28 January) 107 mi

Started off the day pretty early, left with Lois before the sun came up. We had decided to go to Fort Stockton, Texas which would be a 107 mile trip. This was to be my first century ride and I had a little trouble sleeping that night. But I had faith in myself and I knew I would be able to do it if I just paced myself and got a good rhythm during the day. That changed pretty quickly. 10 miles in, right after the sun rose, I got my first flat tire of the trip. I just knew that would happen on my first attempt of the century ride. Frustrated, I fumbled with the tires as Lois helped me and then she went on her way as I put the wheel back on the bike. So I continued along on the shoulder of interstate 10. Another 10 miles go by, and I hear the infamous hiss. My second flat. This time I was prepared. I have my tirelevers in my back pocket as well as my pump in my back pocket to save me time. This one took about five minutes. Instead of bungeeing on the sandals I just ditched them on the side of the road, so that freed up a little weight. I continued on maybe 15 more miles until, you guessed, flat number three. This one caused me to go into a hysterical meltdown. I was incensed at the idea that this trip was to be derailed by three flat tires in just two hours. I knew that I could sulk all I wanted but it wasn't going to change the situation. So I decided it was time to ditch the shoulder and ride right on the road, despite the breath of law-enforcement on my back. I rode along, anxious of the next flat. It never came. I covered 107 miles, having to adjust my time in changing when I would stop to have a break. But that didn't matter anymore. I made it to Fort Stockton, Texas.

Day Twenty-Six: "Mi amigo el sol" (27 January) 36 mi

I had the luxury of leaving late this morning and even though it was chilly out it wasn't as bad as the days before. I gobbled down some cereal at the motel, the Economy Inn, but then I decided to get a breakfast burrito at a local joint. It was a mother and a daughter and it was their kitchen and they cooked up a nice but small breakfast burrito for me with eggs and potatoes. So with that I headed west on one of the ranch roads next to interstate 10 and knew I could take my time. Ozona is only 36 miles away and I figured I'd stop and take a lot of pictures. The problem was, there was nothing interesting enough to really take a picture of. So I continue on, stopped for a few times to get some snacks to grab some good photos here and there. But one of the things that happened was eight deer now, before it was only one, raced alongside me behind a fence. It was a sight to see for sure as I played "A Horse With No Name" on my iPod. It was a magical moment one of those flashes in the pan of surrealism in mysticism. It was my gateway into the Wild West. So then I continued on, reaching Ozona. Gives me a lot of time to think, which could be a bad thing. The other reason, well there were two reasons, that I stopped in Ozona was for one the next town's 50 miles away so that wasn't going to happen. And it gave Lois a chance to catch up to me so we can split the motel cost, plus it'll be nice to have her around.

Another interesting thing that happened today was that I seem to have crossed into the Great Plains, really unexpectedly. I went up this slight incline and then suddenly...flat! It was as if I was in Florida all over again.  Add to that that despite it being the dead of winter, it got really hot today and I was at my bare minimum of layers.

Day Twenty-Five: "Dead or Alive" (26 January) 58 mi

I really did not want to go on the road this morning. For one it was really cold out and the place I stayed last night was actually really nice for a motel. But I knew that like every day before the first hour was always the hardest. So I muscled through the first hour and sure enough it got much easier as my body warmed up and became acclimated. Soon I was heading on the service road of I 10 and then later went on I 10 if only for short while because again the debris. It was mostly gravel but still it just was annoying to ride on even though the service road was bumpy and rough, but there I didn't have to contend with debris. Moving along along the ranch roads I saw a lot of dead animals, mostly deer. It made me seriously think if I had seen more dead animals that alive animals on this trip. I guess you could say I'm in the sort of death valley really. Just seeing the mangled bodies of deer over and over again you just hope to see something alive, something beautiful like a bunny or something. It was a short day, I'm not going to pretend it wasn't. But when I entered Sonora I gave my typical fist bump in the air. Every day is a victory.

Day Twenty-Four: "Cactus Country" (25 January) 65 mi

Left this morning at a reasonable time after finally making a waffle that wasn't resembling scrambled eggs. Continued west on US 290 and immediately hit the hills again, good grief, but they weren't as bad this time around. One of the things I noticed yesterday after going through wine country was that cacti started to appear. Today they were everywhere, bushels and bunches of them and it really was incredible to see that change in the landscape. Also they sure do love their venison here in Texas. That being said I saw a young deer, a fawn, and we must've race together for a quarter of a mile. I was chasing her as she galloped along the fence unable to escape the road. It was a moment like that and many others with nature and wildlife that I'll really never forget. I finally reached the interstate (10) and I stayed on the service roads parallel. I did go on the interstate briefly just to give it a go and see if it if it was okay to ride on (it's legal to here, by the way). The traffic wasn't the problem: the debris on the shoulder was. So I took a back road that led me to Junction and got some great views along the way. So I'm spending the night in Junction on my way to Sonora, Tx tomorrow as I continue along the interstate. Probably going to stick to the service roads though.

Day Twenty-Three: "King of the Hill" (24 January) 77 mi

I left from a bike shop near downtown Austin after buying some extra tubes for the very rough roads ahead in West Texas. John had met me to go ride with  for maybe half an hour. He stuck with me until just we got outside of Austin and then he broke off. It was great having him as a tour guide as well as seeing my friends Leah and Drew. I've known Drew and Leah my entire life and when I had found out they were in Austin and that John, one of my Instagram followers, was there it just made sense to go to Austin. So right after I left Austin I get into the thick of hill country and immediately start doing the steepest ascents of the trip.  I passed 1000 feet today and it just felt incredible being that high up and I got some pictures as well, but the hills really slowed me down so I had to play catch-up. Right around Johnson City, Texas it flattened out and before I knew it I was in wine country. I was thinking "wine country?" I had no idea Texas had wine country. Well regardless it doesn't matter since I don't drink. By the way I'm now in Fredericksburg, Texas which I say is like the Aspen of Texas. Very wealthy, a lot bed-and-breakfast places, a lot of German restaurants. It's a nice area and unfortunately I'll be leaving out tomorrow set out to Junction with sunny skies and cool temperatures on my way to the Southwest.

Day Twenty: "Lost in Austin" (21 January) 80 mi

This day was the best thus far for several reasons. First the weather: cloudy, light drizzle and fog. It's ideal for cycling: no worsening tan lines and there's a mist in the air that cools you. I headed down US 290, also known as US 190's cousin, passing through Giddings and Bastrop on my way to Austin, Texas. I'll skip ahead to the fun stuff. I arrived to my childhood friend/best friend's apartment in Austin just before he left for work at the local restaurant Ramen Tatsu-Ya. It was great seeing Drew as well as his sister Leah who I have known both of them for basically my entire life. About a week ago was when I found out they lived in Austin and I had no idea they did and I think that solidified my decision to visit ATX. What is funny is that one of my Instagram followers also lives in Austin. John, former Floridian now marathon runner/Texan, had reached out to me on Instagram and asked me to meet up and I told him I was heading to the Ramen restaurant and I offered for him to tag along. He is a really cool guy, we have a lot in common and he was so generous enough to to give me a tour of town which I'm so grateful he did.  On top of that he works at a local grocery store and prepared me a goodie bag of vitamins, supplements and protein bars for my trip. Who does that? Talk about a Texas welcome! I better be careful or else I might get sucked into the weird hole that is Austin, Texas. Spending the night at Drew's and will hopefully do a tour of Austin by myself tomorrow. Will be very rainy tomorrow so I'll try to stay inside and dry. Looking to spend two days here.

Losing myself

Yesterday on the road from Huntsville to Carmine I finally began to talk to myself again. I really missed talking to myself and this was a way for me to help understand the new scenery around me. Texas had changed very quickly from forests and lakes to grasslands and ranches and I think it was the scenery that made me want to talk again. Because if you look at the same thing over and over your mind just gets numb to your surroundings. I do enjoy talking to myself but sometimes it just isn't of high priority. 

One of the things that I thought about a lot yesterday was this idea this concept of losing myself. It's something that a lot of people talk about when they go on journeys like this. Like to lose yourself only to find yourself again, this idea of self discovery in this mystical adventure. I think people interpret that as going crazy and just detract yourself from everyone you know, basically kind of a parody of Castaway. I don't believe that to be the case and I think I can lose myself in pretty safe parameters like yesterday. I kind of just relaxed even though I was going up the steep elongated hills with exhaustion; I was calm I was poised and I experienced some euphoria in this new beautiful scenery. And I do experience strong emotions when I talk to myself and no offense to anyone that chooses to ride with me, but I feel that I am at my best on these sorts of adventures when I'm by myself. I feel this ability to fully express who I am at my best and at my worst and that's the idea of the trip, is to get the good the bad and the ugly and I really like seeing the ugly because you don't see the ugly all the time especially when you're around people. I just think that this trip has more dimensions than even I can fathom and even people who've done this before have fathome.d There, not to sound too corny, but there are these intangible dimensions to the trip. And that's really why I think I am enjoying this.

Day Nineteen: "Dialogue" (20 January) 88 mi

Woke at 6 and my host Jennie whipped up a delicious breakfast of scrambled egg tacos and jam covered rolls. I had decided before I went to bed that I'd go for 88-89 miles today to better manage my next two days of mileage. That night before I left to head out to Carmine I visited Sam Houston State University which is right across the street. What a beautiful campus and what an interesting town Huntsville was. It truly was the pleasant surprise of the trip thus far. I knew very little about Sam Houston before I visited Huntsville except maybe for the name sake of the fourth largest city in the United States, but now I do know a lot about Sam Houston. Jennys gallery and house, funny enough, was right across the street from the final home of Sam Houston. I cancelled with my host in Bryan and went southwest to Carmine. Stayed on the shoulder mostly as it was relatively smooth (shocking). Also went through Brenham, home to Blue Bell Ice Cream!

But I didn't stop for ice cream, as much as I wanted to. Instead I just got another protein bar at a gas station. How pathetic. 

It turns out my host Carol lives off a gravel road so I had to walk up the bike, but it was worth it because her property was absolutely gorgeous overlooking cow pastures and beautiful forests. She had also made a tray of different foods including some chicken and dumplings rice and a half of a whole cake. I ate it all in just this reckless, caveman-like manner. She's been hosting for 10 years and she has a bunkhouse in a shed that has some beds a little kitchen and some Wi-Fi, so I cooked breakfast that morning before I left for the start of day 20.

Next two days

These next two days have been tricky to plan for mainly because of the bad weather expected on Thursday. I am currently in Huntsville, Texas and then on my way to Austin. The problem is that cold front is coming in Thursday and is expected to bring a lot of rain. It would seem ideal to get to Austin in three days but if I want to beat the rain I'm going to have to knock out a lot of miles. So instead of going to Bryan, Texas I will most likely go to Carmine, Texas and then to Austin to split up the miles.

Day Eighteen: "1,000" (19 January) 45 mi

Said farewell to Lois this morning after a hug and a brief exchange. I do not know if our paths will cross again but that's the beauty of a trip like this, even how we met. She went south to Conroe while I headed on my nemesis, my antithesis, US 190 to Huntsville. Around Onalaska I was pulled over by a police officer who informed me that they had received calls that I was riding in the middle of the road. I assured her I was not riding in the middle of the road and she was very understanding, particularly because of how rough the shoulders are around Texas. She was extremely polite and I think just pulled me over for my safety and well-being which is always appreciated. So on I continued for about 3 miles before stopping to celebrate my 1000 mile mark with a protein bar on the side of the road. It was a milestone I had to acknowledge because it's going to be another 1000 before I can celebrate again! Passed through some beautiful forests, including Sam Houston National Forest. Now I'm on the porch in Huntsville Texas relaxing in the seventies° weather. Lois, I wish you the best. Happy trails.

What goes on in my head

I thought about today on my ride what really goes on in my head. During this ride I'm supposed to experience some profound change or have these deep thoughts of deep meaning. But this has simply not happened or at least not to the expected degree. When I'm out riding my thoughts are not poetic and they're not profound. Day after day of the daily grind of riding has turned my thoughts into incomprehensible mush and gibberish. 

I rarely talk to myself anymore and when I do it's not some motivation or pseudo philosophy. I don't berate myself anymore, I don't coach myself anymore. For all intents and purposes I am brain-dead when I am riding. The deeper meanings behind this ride rear themselves at the end of the day when I look at the route that I took and see how far I've come. 

I think of that red line that shows my route which curves and twists similar to that "–" on a tombstone between your date of birth and death that people always say is important. Because even if I try to look at this ride as sterile of the emotion and experience and culture, they will always be there waiting for me. Every day is a small victory and I do not think about this trip in the long term. That doesn't mean I don't think about what I'm doing. And when I do think about California, I get a big smile on my face.

An Ode to US 190

Calculated thrusts of air

Through my mouth and out it

Churn my loins up steep

Hills and past scampering

Hounds cheering me on

In their own tongue

You disappoint me with

Your speckles of smooth comfort

And the constant assault 

Of rugged rough road

Grinding my tires and teeth

Patched and tattered you

Are like a used gas

Station bathroom

My only option where

I must close my senses

And accept the terms

Day Seventeen: "The Hills Kill Thighs" (18 January) 65 mi

I will admit to patting myself on the back for the title. Lois and I left our surprisingly spacious room in Jasper and hit, you guessed it, the disheveled US 190 towards Livingston. We went through beautiful Texas forest country and crossed the absolutely stunning B.A. Steinhagen Lake. I blasted "When The Levee Breaks" as we coasted through forests and alongside crystal lakes, a perfect tone to a sunny, clear morning. The temperature climbed as did the elevation. The hills took their toll on me, I must confess. Hills? Pfft. Surely if I could conquer Florida's, Texas would be a piece of cake. Not quite. It's not so much their steepness; they are elongated slopes which show no mercy. By midday I had shed my jacket, revealing the U bike jersey. Got not U throw-ups today, though. Oh well. Stopped in Woodville, Texas for a break and quick lunch (I had packed mine) and Lois had some coffee. It was either I rugged shoulder and smooth road or a smooth shoulder and rugged road, so I alternated between them. It's clear that while the culture is still Southernesque, the landscape is not. I anticipate around Bryan to see an even more drastic change.

I failed to mention I've changed my route once more (likely the last time). I originally was going to be as far north as Dallas, then Waco, and now it's Austin, Texas! I'm stoked to see my childhood friend Drew and his sister this week as well as this hip Seattle of the South. But that's not the main reason: it's to escape the cold dipping south from Canada.

New Mexico is going to be a pain to plan for, thanks to White Sands and a lack of roads.

B.A. Steinhagen Lake

12 miles outside Livingston